Aboriginal Fusion Cuisine gets Ready for 2010

Amanda Connon-Unda
Arts and Culture Editor

Canadian readers of the Globe and Mail may have learned in May 2009 that Aboriginal foods are going to be highlighted at the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver.

In “Aboriginal cuisine preps for the world stage Alexandra Gill wrote about what will take place. All eyes and taste-buds are likely to be rapt by the new Aboriginal fusion cuisine showcased in the Aboriginal Pavilion at the games. In fact it’s reasonable to deduce that wherever Aboriginal fusion cuisine appears in Canada, it exists as much more than a traditional style of cooking paired with a refined modern style.  In a recent phone conversation with one prolific 45-year old aboriginal chef from British Colombia, Andrew George shared his wisdom about what Aboriginal fusion cuisine is and where he sees it heading across the country.

Aboriginal fusion cuisine is demonstrated as more than just a way to make a living, it’s a way to give reverence to Aboriginal cultural traditions and a way to inspire Canadian chefs from many different walks of life. Recently with these goals in mind, George created a training and development program in partnership with the Kla-how-eya Aboriginal Centre of the Surrey Aboriginal Cultural Society. There he offers disadvantaged youth the opportunity to upgrade their education and obtain a hands-on cooking experience.

Last month from Vancouver, George explained what differentiates Aboriginal fusion cuisine from other kinds of cooking. He said, “It’s described as fresh, organic and very health-conscious cuisine. It’s lean and healthy.

We have hardly any fat on the meat. We advocate for local products used in our culinary school. In a way we’re going back to the basics of cooking. It’s all made from scratch, it’s organic and local. We look to local nations, as well, for our suppliers.”

George explained enthusiastically, “Why is it fusion cuisine?… (Because) In most cases we can’t use our traditionally produced foods. But we can use other products. In restaurants we have to make it food safe – and it has to be prepared in an industrial kitchen. So, we duplicate our traditional dishes in a modern version, which can be difficult. We take authentic concepts and we move them forward.”

A member of the Wet’suwe’en nation, George grew up on reserve. He said, “We grew up poor and on reserve and walked the trails as our fore-fathers did. I learned as a young person how to cook on an open-fire and how they preserved and cooked food.” Then in junior high school, with his six siblings and his parents both working, George said, “Someone had to cook.  I took up the challenge. I didn’t like doing dishes. I liked open camp fire and we only had a wood stove.” George said he learned from his mother who was an excellent cook how to cook well, and he enjoyed it.

In Grade 11, George said his career counsellor thought he would make a good professional chef. So, after taking summer jobs in restaurant kitchens and finishing high school he went to college. After only visiting the ‘big city’ – Vancouver – once before in grade seven, George decided to move there in 1983 for college.

He said he was late for the first day of class because he got lost. He said, “It was risky for me. A big culture shock, but it paid off. It was a huge decision for me. I noticed there were only two aboriginals in the school. A lot of people approached us about aboriginal cuisine to ask us how to cook in that style. They wanted to know – I realized it was a niche that we had.”

The first job George got in the city was in 1985 in one of Vancouver’s first Aboriginal restaurants where he learned how to cook on a wood burning barbeque.

In 1992 as one of the most-renowned Aboriginal chefs and community leaders, George participated in the Native Canadian Haute Cuisine Team at the International Culinary Olympics in Germany. Then in 1997, along with a writer who he met there, Robert Gairns, he co-authored a book entitled FEAST—Canadian Native Cuisine for All Seasons, which was published by Doubleday. The book outlined how to cook game meats like bison and moose, inspiring home cooks and restaurants alike.
From that point onward, George continued to expand his cuisine repertoire and gained business knowledge. Now he’s an expert in his field.

Today, George shares his version of fusion cuisine through the consulting with other chefs at restaurants such as the Four Seasons in Whistler and he ensures Aboriginal inspired menus are prepared. He wants to educate the public on how his people traditionally prepared food. He said, “I want to give them a whole new experience. I create a whole new dish. I do a combination of French, Italian and Aboriginal. I think cuisine has a key role to play today because the world is very universal. In Canadian cities we have many diverse people and ethnic backgrounds coming together with their own cuisine. We’re fortunate to have many cultural cuisines in Canada.”

Furthermore, George explained why he wants to incorporate his own traditions into the cuisine he puts into menus and educational syllabi. He said he sees fusion cuisine as, “promoting our culture – taking Aboriginal products from all parts of Canada.” Before the Olympics George says he’ll be going to remote regions, talking to elders about the traditional ways of harvesting and looking at modern technologies to move Aboriginal cuisine further into contemporary forms. He said, “I’m trying to modernize it. Highlight it and make it mainstream.”

George says his goals for Aboriginal Canadian cuisine are to have it be recognized internationally like other cuisines are. He explained, “The more people we educate and motivate – it will be better for all. The more people we get involved – the further it goes. Not only Aboriginal chefs are interested in this cuisine. Aboriginal fusion cuisine is getting more of a presence in the restaurant market.” George said he wants to train as many people as he can in Aboriginal cuisine.

George said that because the country is so vast there is a big range in the Aboriginal cuisine found.
George said “It’s critical to move forward as a people that we show we understand who we are. We are able to produce haute Aboriginal cuisine. That’s my goal and vision.”

Although George says he only knows of a few restaurants specializing in Aboriginal cuisine he said he wants to create his own log house restaurant with a theater to promote Aboriginal culture, with dancers and a dinner theatre. He said, “There is room for restaurant like that in Vancouver.” Indeed there is plenty of room for restaurants like that all over Canada and in Toronto too.